The Golden Age of hitchhiking in America was the period between the end of WW2 and the first oil shock in 1973. Before WW2 the road system was relatively sparse and traffic was light. Hobos and tramps “rode the rails”, while few ordinary citizens traveled coast to coast. It was the Great Depression era and most people were just trying to feed their families and keep a roof over their heads.
After WW2 and the economic stimulus it brought there were many returned soldiers out on the side of the highway; they were either trying to hitch a ride home or trying to get to some part of the country where they could find work. Many people picked up hitchhikers even when they weren’t war veterans. It was a more trusting era, in part because the mass media was in its early days and local crimes weren’t broadcast coast to coast.
After 1973 people in general became suspicious of hitchhikers and it became much more difficult to get rides. It just wasn’t fun anymore and I reluctantly gave up hitchhiking long distances.
I did quite a bit of hitchhiking during 1972 and 1973. There’s a German word which I just can’t recall right now; its meaning is “that period of a person’s life between the end of schooling and the beginning of a settled life, a free-form period of travel and concomitant exposure to a variety of people and cultures.” The years 1972 and 1973 were that period of my life.
Here are two anecdotes which collectively could be called “Out In the Middle of Nowhere”.
It was August of 1972 and I was trying to get back to Quincy. I’d been on the road all summer and I was out of money and had little food. I was standing by the side of a highway in eastern Montana. There were no signs of human habitation or agriculture, not even so much as a fence. Just wind-rippled grass and the vast blue dome of the sky. I grew up in mid-sized cities and this was very novel to me; I felt small and insignificant, the only sentient mammal for miles and miles.
The traffic was very sparse. I could see an approaching vehicle far off in the distance, and it seemed to take forever for it to reach me, then it would take minutes, it seemed, for it to dwindle to a speck on the horizon.
During the long intervals between vehicles I would let my mind drift into some sort of meditative or contemplative state. No use fretting! Sometimes I would grope for a book in my backpack and sit crosslegged reading for a while.
It was very quiet; just the scarcely audible susurration of the breeze rippling through the grass. But then I heard the sound of an approaching vehicle. I stood up and extended my thumb. A blue car slowed a bit when the driver saw me. The car came to a stop a hundred feet past me and I trotted towards it. Just as I reached it the driver accelerated abruptly, burning rubber as it shot away.
I was angry. How rude, to trifle with me in such a manner! I extended my middle finger to the departing driver, “flipping him the bird” in the common parlance.
The driver abruptly braked and, with the tail end of the car slewing, turned around and cruised back towards me. As the car slowly passed before me I could see that the driver was a man in his early twenties with a ducktail haircut, the sort of hair-style which requires the aid of Brylcream or similar products. The man gave me the evil eye and scowled ferociously.
The black kitten which clung to the top of my backpack looked over my shoulder and hissed. I said “Hey, what’s your problem? Want another one? Here!” and I gave him the finger again. No, no, I’m kidding, I didn’t say that! I was quaking in my boots. As for the kitten, that’s another story!
The man in the blue Chevy cruised past me, then burned rubber making a U-turn and cruised by me again, still scowling. Then he floored the gas pedal and, burning rubber again, shot away and was soon a speck in the distance. I resolved that never again would I be so free with my middle finger!
I sat down again and returned to my book. Half an hour later I saw and heard a pickup truck in the distance. I stood up and stuck my thumb out. The truck braked and I walked up to the cab. A man in his sixties wearing a Stetson hat regarded me dubiously.
“Son, I don’t pick up hitchhikers, generally.” he said. “You look hungry to me, though… here, you can have my lunch!”
The man handed me a sack containing a couple of tuna salad sandwiches along with a pint of milk.
“Why, thanks so much! I really appreciate it!” I said.
He said “Guess it’s my good deed for the day.” As he pulled away he waved and said “Good luck!”
I finally got a ride and a couple of days later I was back in Quincy.
Let’s fast-forward a few months. I was living with a couple of friends in an apartment on the South Side and I had a factory job. I had been corresponding with my future wife Betsy. She was helping an old farmer in southern Vermont in exchange for room and board, and we decided that I should come out there for a visit.
It was December and I brought along plenty of warm clothes. I had never hitchhiked during the winter, and I soon found that if a ride wasn’t forthcoming I needed to walk in order to keep from freezing to death. Walking kept up my body temperature.
After a series of rides which got me through Illinois I got a ride at an entrance ramp somewhere in Indiana; I was trying to get back on I-80. A man in his sixties and his grown son pulled their pickup truck over and I stowed my pack in the truck’s bed and climbed into the cab.
As we cruised down the interstate I found that I had much in common with the father and son and we just talked up a storm. I didn’t notice when the father, who was driving, turned off I-80 and headed north into Michigan.
During a lull in the conversation I looked out and realized that we were on a two-lane highway.
I said with alarm “Where are we, anyway?”
“We’re in Michigan, heading north.”
“Oh, man, I need to get back to the interstate! Why don’t you let me out here!”
The father pulled over and I grabbed my backpack. I said “Thanks for the ride! I enjoyed talking with you two!”
As the pickup disappeared into the distance I belatedly realized that I should have waited until we got to a town before getting out. It was pitch dark and very cold. There were no lights visible and the sky was glorious; the Milky Way and Orion were as bright as I had ever seen them. There was no traffic. Once again I was out in the middle of nowhere, an insignificant speck on the globe of the Earth.
I walked all night just to keep warm. As impending dawn lightened the eastern sky I came to a brightly-lit truckstop. I was so grateful to see that place! I went in and ordered some breakfast. After eating and getting warmed up I found a trucker who was willing to give me a ride south to I-80.
More stories to come!
Addendum: After “sleeping on it” the German word which I couldn’t recall last night came floating into view this morning:
wanderjahr (plural wanderjahre)
1. A year-long period of travel; especially succeeding one’s
education and prior unto seeking employment.
2. (historical) A year spent by an apprentice travelling and honing
his skills prior unto the professional practice of his trade.
Larry